The newest ammunition offering from Hornady, however, is bound to spark a resurgence in the American love affair with the lever action.Īlready available in. I can get about 8 grains of bullseye in the thing when I drill a 5/16" hole down the neck, I use a regular LR primer and around 5 grains of BE for a 21gr cast lead projo.It may have been the gun that won the West, but the lever gun hasn’t always gotten the love it deserves in a modern world dominated by semi-autos and bolt guns. (If you have a decent centering vice on the drill press you can do the whole thing without the lathe) Take it out to the drill press and drill it out to just under the neck size with a drill bit in the drill press. Put the case neck first into the lathe and drill a pilot hole from the touch hole to the neck, thru all the lead you just filled it with. Pour in molten lead to the base of the neck and let it cool. Plug the touchhole with a little piece of the point from a bamboo BBQ skewer (you know the throw away kind that cost about 2 bucks for 100 at the grocery store) Take a Qtip and wipe solder paste all over the inside of the case. You're ready to fill them with solder or lead. Rinse it well with De-Inonized water to clear out the nitric acid wash. This lifts any oxidation off the surface. The way that I do them for the 54R now is to clean the fireformed and unsized brass ultrasonically to get them completely devoid of any carbon inside, then wash them in a dilute solution of nitric acid. It allows clearance for a 5/16 drill bit without cutting the neck during the final steps. Knock the primer out with a center punch, don't neck size the cases, there's a specific reason for this.
After about 10 reloads they tended to shoot loose. I've done it successfully with JBWeld and JB-Kwik. Make sure you resize the case before you do this, and you can just neck size after. and filling the case up to the neck and then very carefully drilling out the epoxy after 2-3 day cure time. Originally Posted By: LARMIKEYou can make a reduced capacity case by buying some Epoxy I dont remember which epoxy. With a Chrono you get yourself the velocity and know when it's reasonable to even try making it silent. If they hit nose first, stick your can back on and have a good time.Įach time you reduce the load you should be doing it without the suppressor on the nose for that reason. Shoot them to 100y and look for key-holing. I say take the can off so that you don't get a baffle strike accidentally. The extra pressure from stuffing a jacket down the tube will help you with that. I shoot 14 gr of Unique under a 150 RN lead bullet as a cheap "plinker load" for shorter ranges.
#SUBSONIC BULLET FULL#
12gr of Unique won't give you a SEE in a full volume case. Take your can off to do the testing, but it should work just fine. I really don't want to get a stuck round and I'm on the fence about even trying them." The rifle has a 10 twist and a 24" barrel. I haven't fired them yet, but I am going to the range this week and was thinking about giving them a try. I don't have any Trailboss, but I did have some Unique, so I loaded up a few rounds with 12 grains of unique in Win brass with CCI BR2 primers topped with some 175 SMK's. I only saw one reference to Unique, and I believe some time ago in the regular section of the reloading forum someone said that Unique and Trailboss can be pretty much substituted for one another. "Question for you guys who've been working with the SS stuff. This is my post the other day in the reloading depot under the subsonics section.
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